Life certainly started for me at sixty. For my husband, Denis and I, it was the beginning of our overseas adventures. We love different cultures with Asia being our usual destination and Cambodia our absolute favourite. There is a magnet to this country that keeps us returning. Is it the scenery, or the simple lifestyle? Is it the friendliness, the culture or maybe the food? Or maybe, it’s the friends we have made?
Its three years since we’ve been to our friend Davuth’s village. Last time we bounced from bump to bump. With the dirt road now sealed, the ride in our tuktuk is a lot smoother. Some of the shanties on the side of the road are still looking a little worse for the wear. And as Davuth turns into his front yard, we see very little change to his one roomed thatched shack. But we do notice the small yard it proudly sits on has been cleared of overgrowth. And this time, rather than the washing spread over the vegetation, it is now neatly hung along poles.
A menagerie of animals still clings to the front yard. Chickens, ducks and a couple of pups run for shelter as we move closer. Looking through to the back of the house we see a rather large cow securely tethered. We’re unsure if this is because of the visitors or the washing. But then again, cows in Cambodia do have a tendency to wander.
We are warmly greeted by Davuth’s wife, Sopheap and two daughters, Nacy and Janey. And along with our big basket of toys and treats, we are ushered inside.
The improvements inside are quite obvious. Power has been connected with a ceiling fan working overtime. A very small and rather old TV – a relic from Davuth’s workplace – sits on a box in the corner. The once dirt floor is partially paved. It is work in progress as money and time allows.
On our last visit, the sleeping area consisted of one medium size bed with minimal bedclothes. There now stands two larger beds, complete with mattresses and bedding. Two bright eyes peer out from under a bed as a bewildered puppy watches our every move.
The middle of the room consists of the living area with a raised platform, not unlike a table with a mesh top. With kids being the same everywhere, it didn’t take long for the basket of goodies to be quickly emptied onto this structure.
Even though living conditions have dramatically improved over the last few years, cupboards remain non-existent. Clothes are tidily strung along one wall, and the large structural pole in the middle of the room doubles as hanging space. Uneven shelving has been ruggedly built into the framework of the walls and proudly holding countless family treasures.
And although there is quite a homely feel to this little shanty, there is no bathroom or for that matter, running water. Water is pumped from a community well to a large urn outside. This water is used for everything from drinking to taking a shower with a bucket or a scoop.
Sanitation is still an issue and the cause of many prevalent diseases. Time in hospital is a common occurrence. But, at least there are hospitals.
Fortunately, conditions are slowly changing. The infrastructure totally destroyed through years of political unrest is being rebuilt. There is still much poverty, however outside assistance is making its mark.
Our friends are also moving forward. Improving their meagre living conditions sends a very strong message of endurance and survival. And their kindness and friendship by far outshines their living conditions.
Our next holiday will no doubt include a return to the beauty of Cambodia and the kindness of our friends.