‘Immerse yourself in history in south-east Queensland’s Cleveland’

Sep 12, 2019
At Cleveland Point you'll find the old wooden lighthouse, built in 1864. Source: Robyn McCoy

I live on the east coast of Australia in the state of Queensland, specifically the south-east corner of the state. We are so fortunate, in our tropical climate, to enjoy mild winters but our summers are bloody fierce; hot, hot, hot! Born and bred in the capital of Brisbane, I fancy I know my neighbourhood quite well and am rather proud to show it off to all-comers. Sadly, it took a Yank to prove me wrong and show me some of my most culturally important history was just a short drive away; don’t you just hate that!?

Brisbane is best known, interstate and internationally, for its beaches, pristine waterways and yes, ‘just north’, is the city of Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef. Convincing visiting international guests otherwise is a tough sell. The distance between Brisbane and Cairns is 1,681 kilometres; a road trip that takes roughly 19 hours, train 24 hours or a couple of hours flying time. So, you know, it ain’t just an afternoon afterthought fill-in.

My friends from New Jersey, U.S. of A (they love it when I say that) are visiting Down Under; so exciting. On this, their first Australian trip, they’ll be visiting most states and, I suggest, comparing notes.

I am sometimes described as ultra competitive but, to my mind, I simply want Brisbane to be the very best at all costs; no matter what it takes! Calm down.

The Yanks enjoy history and architecture so maybe I have to aim higher than our mainstay fallback of sun, surf and sand; they’re in Brisbane for 48 hours. Challenge accepted — heritage trails sought, sussed, studied and … Googled mercilessly.

I researched the dickens out of my city. All my travels both interstate and internationally had apparently not prepared me for the fact I actually did not know the history of my home town in great detail. What?! Worse was to come. As I proudly presented my detailed itinerary of our fancy-schmansy heritage listed icons, they asked me about ‘Cleveland’. Thinking it was a trick question I informed them it was a city in Ohio. No, ‘our’ Cleveland, just south of Brisbane, was originally meant to be the capital of Queensland and has some very interesting architecture. Really?

Thus informed and totally embarrassed I stuttered that I was sure I’d been there ‘some time’. Mental readjustment and a cerebral quick step or two registered an emergency day trip dry-run should be planned immediately.

Cleveland is a beautiful place and I’m ashamed to say I had no idea. How is that possible given this destination is a mere 40-minute drive south from Brisbane; in my own backyard?

This historical bayside township owes much of its character to an incident in 1850 when visiting New South Wales governor George Gipps stepped off a boat to survey the fledgling free settlement and sunk waist deep in mud. Had the tide been in, Cleveland would now be the bustling main port of Brisbane rather than the oldest settlement on Moreton Bay. Learnt something new there, didn’t you?

Cleveland has plenty of attractions and it is pretty special. You’ll find a cache of well-preserved heritage buildings, an original timber lighthouse, a 168-year-old pub, a slick museum, historical homestead and quaint town centre. Enjoy exploring!

The Grand View Hotel, a mid-19th century landmark and Queensland’s very first licensed pub. Source: Robyn McCoy

The Grand View Hotel, a mid-19th century landmark located in Cleveland, was Queensland’s very first licensed pub. Built in 1851 as a single-storey building the Grand View has had alterations and additions to become what we see today. However, with views across the bay it’s more than a pleasant place to stop for a meal and something cold to drink.

Reputedly Australia’s largest banyan tree on the road out to Cleveland Point. Source: Robyn McCoy

Across the road you’ll find Queensland’s oldest banyan tree. Though the exact date this tree was planted is unknown, it has been suggested by the Redland Shire Council that is dates back as far as 1924, planted as part of a program to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the founding of European settlement in the region.

St Paul’s Cleveland. Source: Robyn McCoy

Other heritage and historical buildings include the old Cleveland Hotel circa 1860, St Paul’s Church circa 1873, the old courthouse and jail circa 1849 (which is now The Courthouse Restaurant and overlooks the water) and the old school house, which now an art gallery.

At Cleveland Point is the old wooden lighthouse, built in 1864, on Sundays nearby Ormiston House, part of the area’s first sugar plantation and one time home to the father of Queensland’s sugar industry Louis Hope, is open to the public for tours and Devonshire tea. It’s stunningly beautiful.

Cleveland may not have to be first on the list, but its historical value should be recognised and acknowledged; I’m ashamed I had no idea of its past value to our region. Perhaps this is a lesson for us all.

Being an avid traveller I do know information, education, adventure, new sights and sounds can be found locally, around the corner, down the road. I do know that, I just forgot. Bloody Yanks know everything.

Author’s note: Before anyone complains, please know my American friends love that I call them ‘Yanks’. here is no offence meant, taken or given.

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