Colombian adventure part two

To read Steve’s previous blog,Why exotic Colombia is so special, click here.

The return to Bogota was in the evening, in solid rain, on a single lane road around and over the Andes Mountains.  We were somewhat thankful we were unable to see how close we were driving to the edge of cliffs, since there are few protective barriers in this part of the world.  You will always know when you are entering downtown Bogota. The road surfaces are atrocious, the driving is feral, turning indicators are simply used as Christmas decorations, and you get tooted from behind if you do not proceed the second a traffic light turns green.  Turning right from the left hand lane without a turning indicator is considered “normal”, and taxis notoriously stop directly in front of you to alight passengers.  Everyone toots, but no one really cares and there is no ill feeling.  It’s just Bogota.

Our hotel this time was the Porton Bogota, a smaller boutique establishment in the north of the city, with only 38 rooms.  But it made up for size with huge beds, wonderful breakfasts and excellent service, in both English and Spanish.  Our first port of call the next morning was the Monserate, the church and lookout, accessed by funicular or cable car (take your pick), that gives one of the best overall views of Bogota.  A word of warning, whilst Bogota is 2,548 metres above sea level, the Monserate stands at 3,175 metres (10,350 feet) above sea level, a test on one’s breathing capacity if you over exert yourself.  Wander slowly, enjoy the view, breath normally, have a cup of genuine Colombian coffee from the little cafeteria (it does help) and the reward will be a panorama remembered forever.  Bogota is a massive city, and whilst it sits on top of a plateau, the Andes still surround it.

This is probably a very appropriate time to introduce “a la orden”, words you will hear quite often, particularly around souvenir and artisan shops.  It means, “may I help you”, and is usually preceded by buenas dias (morning), tardes (afternoon) or noches (evening), depending on what time of day you are approached.  Colombians never get in your face while they are spruiking, and they don’t take offence if you ignore them.  But a smile never goes astray.  It does help to learn a little of the language before you visit this country, or a least have a little English to Spanish phrase book handy when you step outside your hotel.  Half the pleasure of this country is attempting to speak a phrase or two.

After the Monserate we journeyed back into the city proper, visiting the main city square, the art museums, including Botero’s (I am not a fan of anyone who glorifies fatness) and lunch in the restaurant district.  We dined at Sopas y Postres (soups and desserts), and yes, another ajiaco was ordered, slightly different from Villa de Leyva’s, and at last Bogota has learnt from the French; they all make the best ajiaco in the city!  Then shopping!  Now I have to tell you that Colombians in general are somewhat smaller than us westerners, so be careful with sizes.  What appears to be a size L is actually an M in Melbourne.  I am struggling with sizes here, even though I have come with a reasonable sized shopping list.  For those of you who consider yourselves shopaholics, the attractions here are handbags, boots, shoes, shirts, jeans, hats, pottery, and jewellery.  To give you an example, my wife purchased a pair of genuine leather boots (top quality, of course), costing 130,000 Colombian pesos.  That works out to Aust$72.00.  After shopping we headed back to the hotel in a typical Bogotan taxi.

Ahhhh the taxis!  The taxis in this country are a law unto themselves.  They are small (use the Suzuki Swift as an example!), and the drivers only know two speeds; flat out and stop.  We sat in the back seat (only place to sit), while our driver tore through the city at break neck speed, taking each curve at full bore, cutting anyone off that attempted to slow him down, changed lanes every 15 seconds (without using the indicator), and sitting on the bumper bar of any car in front of him.  You must lock your door and hang on like grim death.  The scenery on the way?  We don’t remember any!  And the fare?  10,400 pesos (Aust$5.77) for the ride of our lives.  I told you that this country is the ultimate adventure.

Have you experienced crazy driving or transport in any other part of the world?