Why exotic Colombia is so special

Before I get into my stride I should own up and admit that this is my fourth visit to Colombia and I have a very large family here, mainly based in the city of Medellin. Therefore my experiences of this country are wide and somewhat biased. That being said Colombia is a part of the world that very few Westerners see, due mainly to the legacy of drug cartels and guerrilla violence, which is now receding into the background and replaced with the typical warmth offered by many Colombianos.

Colombia is an extraordinary land of incredible beauty. Found in the north-western corner of South America, just below Panama, it is bordered by the Pacific Ocean on its western side, the Caribbean to the north, the river Orinoco (shared with Venezuela) to the east and the Amazon River to the south. Colombia is one-third mountain (three fingers of the Andes), one-third jungle (much of it unexplored) and the last third taken up by coastal plain, prairie and river basins. Its population is in excess of 46 million, its principle language is Spanish and the main religion is Catholic. The national currency is the peso and the current exchange rate is 1,800 pesos to the Australian dollar.

Unfortunately it is a country you reach in stages, for example Melbourne/Sydney to Dallas, Texas, Orlando or Miami, Florida, then Bogota. The minimum flight time is 21 hours. Never do it all at once! Customs and immigration are simple and no visa is required. All the authorities require is a return airline ticket and an address where you will be staying. Once out of the major cities you will need a good English/Spanish translation book. It helps to understand a little of the language.

Our journey commences in Colombia’s capital city, Bogota (full name Santafe de Bogota, but rarely used). Bogota sits on a high plateau of the Andes Occidentale (western Andes), at a height of 2,548 metres above sea level (8,361 feet). Originally settled by the Muisca people it was eventually found by Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada and 166 conquistadors during an expedition to the centre of the country in 1537.

As was the norm in the conquest of the “new world” neither the Muiscans nor the Spanish got on very well, and eventually the conquistadors prevailed and began to build their new city over the very Muiscan ruins they created in the first place. Interestingly they named the city after the very Muiscan king they murdered with a crossbow, to assume control of the local people – Zipa Bogota. Today we simply know the city as Bogota.

We spent one night at the Bogota Plaza before heading for the province of Boyaca to the east of the capital. Whilst this is prime agricultural country, it is also the home of the Cathedral del Sol, medicinal spring baths, lakes, production of ceramics by local artisans and the famous Augustinian monastry at Raquira (all visited). Whilst certain friends will remind me of platanos (bland) and frijoles (lovely in small quantities), this region is famous for my favourite dish – ajiaco, a soup with potato, chicken, corn, rice, avocado, capers and sour cream. I would die for this dish!

This area is also beginning to plant vineyards; the white wine produced has serious potential but I don’t think their red wines will make it. Colombians are incredibly friendly people- everyone greets you even if they have never seen you before, so helpful (even if their answer is incorrect), and everyone has a story they wish to tell you (even if it is only about the first time granddaughter filled her nappy). They also have farmers’ markets here and the produce is extensive. And you should listen to them spruik! lluego por ahora or bye for now! Steve.

Have you been to Columbia? What did you find most interesting about this hidden treasure?