Heads and Tails: The Aboriginal people of Arnhem Land

Desley and her husband have been exploring the sights and culture of Northern Territory by bus and caravan. Today, Desley shares with us her amazing  insight into the Aboriginal history and culture in Arnhem Land.

This beautiful story is the follow up from her last edition of “Heads and Tails” about culture shock, which you can read by clicking here.

Everybody on our tourist bus was keen to go into the Injalak Arts and Crafts Centre and meet the Aboriginal artists and see firsthand how their artworks are created.  It was hot standing outside the front door in the sun, but without Wally to show us around, we were not permitted to enter.  We just had to find some shade and wait for Wally…

In his good time, Wally emerged and welcomed us to the centre established in 1989 in Oenpelli (now Gunbalayna) in Arnhem Land, to promote the Aboriginal art and traditional culture of the local Kunwinjku people.

Wally led us around the building to where a couple of men were sitting on the concrete floor, diligently working on their paper bark paintings.  The elder, an old man, hair a grey wiry brush that haloed his head, sat cross-legged as he juggled his metre long painting across his knees, dipping his fine brush into a shallow hole in the concrete that held the red ochre paint.

The younger man shyly demonstrated how the intricate paintings were created using a brush with a long hair-like bristle.  Wally showed us how the brushes were made from a Pandanus stem, delicately biting the outside layer with his strong teeth to reveal the fine fibers inside.

Three women sat under the shady trees, demonstrating how they prepare the materials sourced from their local area to make baskets and other artefacts.  Anne told us how they collect their materials from the surrounding area, not only the Pandanus palm for weaving, but also other plants that are boiled and used for their yellow, blue and purple dyes.

Inside, the shop was crammed with the authentic artwork created by the many Aboriginal artists and weavers in the community who are inspired by the ancient rock art of their ancestors in the nearby hills: paintings on paper bark, carvings, baskets and mats, their unique designs screen printed on bolts of fabric, didgeridoos, mimi poles and much more.

Visiting this centre was the highlight of our three-day tour through Kakadu and Arnhem Land recently.  We chose to go on the AATKings coach tour that visited various rock art and burial sites not available to other tour companies or private vehicles.  I particularly wanted to glean all the information about the local Aboriginal culture that the tour bus drivers have at their disposal, rather than spending a lot of time gathering brochures to read in the Information Centres.

However, I wished I had had the time to sit under the tree with Anne and the other women, having a go at weaving a dilly bag.  The driver sounded the horn.  It was time to resume our tour, to climb the next hill to see another gallery in an ancient cave dwelling.

Wally bid us farewell.  Anne waved from under the tree.  I stowed my painting safely in the overhead rack.  A vivid reminder of the day, I had a brief glimpse and insight into the amazing 50,000-year history and culture of the Aboriginal people of Arnhem Land.