‘The experience of a traditional Barong and Trance Dance in the middle of Kuta, Bali’

My husband, Bruce, and I spend about two to three months a year in Bali, Indonesia and have travelled there many times over the years. So comfortable we are with the destination that we have a regular driver, Putu Agoose, who takes us around the island, stopping wherever we fancy along the way.

On a trip in 2018 we were based at Tuban, a village in Badung Regency and easily accessible to the Ngurah Rai International Airport. It’s essentially South Kuta, the place you stay when you want to be in Kuta, but don’t want to stay in Kuta. Consider it as a place to stay if you want to be near the action but still have a bit of peace and quiet.

After travelling around the island we checked into Nukas. Ibu and Astika welcomed us and after speaking with them for some time invited us to a Barong and Trance Dance the following evening. The Barong represents a fight between good and evil spirits; it’s a mythological creature regarded as the King of the Spirits. The Barong and Trance Dance is native to the Balinese culture.

Astika said this particular event was not for tourists and that he would take us. We got into our gear with a little help from Ibu. Bruce went off with one of the staff while I waited for Astika to finish praying in the family temple.

Trying to lift my sarong, Astika told me women rode side-saddle, which made me quite nervous. Thankfully he drove slowly. Astika reminded me that our destination was not often visited by tourists to Bali and that the dancing would not have the same level of theatrics that would normally be on display. Real kris knives — a traditional dagger with a wavy blade often associated with Indonensia — would be used.

The battle between Barong and Rangda is usually performed in the temple of the dead. Arriving at the temple there were about 300 people in attendance — men, women and children. Astika showed us where to sit and introduced us to a few people he knew. He used to participated in the dance, but as a balian (a healer) his job was now to lead and look after others.

The story goes that Rangda, the mother of Erlangga, the King of Bali in the 10th century, was condemned by Erlangga’s father because she practised black magic. After she became a widow, she summoned all the evil spirits in the jungle, the leaks and the demons, to come after Erlangga. A fight occurred, but she and her black magic troops were too strong that Erlangga had to ask for the help of Barong.

Barong came with Erlangga’s soldiers and fight ensued. Rangda cast a spell that made Erlangga soldiers all wanted to kill themselves, pointing their poisoned kris into their own stomachs and chests. Barong cast a spell that turned their body resistant to the sharp kris. At the end, Barong won, and Rangda ran away.

The air was thick with incense and smoke from coconut shells being burnt. The gamelan (a traditional instrumental ensemble) started and eight girls danced in, then eight boys. They danced in the stylised way of Bali then the Barong came out of the temple and later Rangda — the demon queen of the Leyaks in Bali in accordance with the local mythology — and her daughters.

At times the audience laughed as some parts of the dance were funny, and the little boys in the crowd jigged about copying the dancers. Suddenly a woman from the crowd started moving next to the Barong, swaying with it. She started making loud noises and throwing her hands up in the air. When she slumped down she was moved to one side and a holy man sat with her sprinkling her with holy water. At one stage she bared her breasts and another woman tucked her back in.

The gamelan intensified and more women came forward. Dancing, moaning, going rigid and falling to the ground. The men with kris knives started pushing them into their chests. Some fell backwards onto the ground with rigid legs. The crowd surged backwards and forwards. I climbed up out of the way.

Somebody can die or get seriously injured in a Barong dance. It is said that if Rangda’s spell is too strong, a weak soldier may not be able to resist it, even with the help of Barong. He may end up hurting himself with his own keris.

One young man held a kris to his chest while another pounded at it with a coconut. The gamelan got louder in waves as the people surged. The holy men moved sprinkling water and supporting people

Then suddenly it was over, the gamelan packed up the Barong returned to the temple.

Bali is rich in culture and tradition. Its dances play an important part and the Barong is the most well-known dance in Bali. I had never experienced it like this before and it was quite a privilege to be able to encounter it in such a traditional manner.

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