I do like to be beside the sea

I am writing this sitting on the verandah of a holiday unit within the BIG4 Tourist Park in Port Denison, Western Australia. I am separated from the ocean by a small stretch of lawn, a pedestrian pathway and a sea wall made up of large grey boulders. I could easily lob a rock into the ocean from where I am sitting. The day is overcast with intermittent showers and strong winds. There is a very high swell dumping waves well out to sea and closer to shore. The inclement weather and the accompanying thumping of the waves and the roaring of the wind adds to the spectacle, rather than detracts from it. It is hard to tell if the moisture obscuring my vision is from fine rain or salty sea spray.

Port Denison is 350 kilometres north of Perth. It’s a five-minute drive south of Dongara and 67km south of Geraldton, the major hub in the Mid West region of Western Australia. The area has been marketed as the Rock Lobster capital of Australia. Port Denison and Dongara have a combined population of 2,800, so we are not talking a thriving metropolis. Geraldton has an estimated population of 54,000.

As well as being a centre for the rock lobster industry (we’ve yet to indulge in our feed of lobster this visit), both Port Denison and Dongara rely heavily on the tourist industry and are popular holiday spots, particularly during the months of October to March. The beaches, of course, are a great attraction to young families, boaties, beach-fishers, surfers and those just looking for a getaway by the sea.

My wife Lynne and I have stayed here several times. Last September, following several days in Kalbarri (220km further north) we were booked for three nights, and enjoyed it so much we stayed for five.

We drove up from Perth yesterday. With stops for coffee in Lancelin and lunch in Jurien Bay, we completed the trip in a leisurely five hours. This is promoted as a three-and-a-half hour drive, but while the destination may be important, it’s the journey that really matters. The journey along Indian Ocean Drive is dotted with small hamlets and towns all worth a short, or even long, visit. Places like Ledge Point, Green Head, Leeman, Cervantes and the already mentioned Lancelin and Jurien Bay. Other than a cracked windscreen from a flying stone, our trip was enjoyable and uneventful.

Indian Ocean Drive forms part of Australia’s Coral Coast, which stretches 1,300km from Perth to Exmouth. In the past we have stopped at Cervantes for lunch, which is a pleasant spot to break the journey. And while mentioning Cervantes, it would be remiss of me to not mention the Pinnacles Dessert, a collection of incredible limestone spires that rise eerily from the ground, some several metres tall. It’s a must-see along the way.

We are not caravaners, preferring to stay in unit or chalet accommodation. But Port Denison and Dongara offer a great range of accommodation to suit all visitors. Dongara became a RV-friendly town in 2014 when a dump point was installed and free camping areas introduced.

For the history buffs, Port Denison-Dongara dates back to 1839. A jetty was first built at Port Irwin (now Port Denison) in 1867. Ships visited the port bringing in supplies and taking away products of the district such as wheat, wool, flour and sandalwood. Several Heritage-listed buildings along with the Moreton Bay fig trees can be seen in the main street of Dongara, and the local museum is well worth a visit. Dongara also has a drive-in theatre dating back to 1966, one of only a handful of drive-ins still operating in Western Australia

Regular markets showcase crafts and local produce. We found the Anzac Memorial beautiful in a peaceful, but sombre way. Wildlife can be seen along the banks of the Irwin River and from a stroll along the specially constructed boardwalk. The opportunity for a quiet, relaxing walk along the ocean front is an added bonus.

Dongara really hums over Easter with the Dongara races, supported by markets, an art exhibition and Easter egg hunt. But the word is, get in early to make your bookings.

Port Denison-Dongara is also popular during the wildflower season (August to October). During our visit in September we enjoyed the display of Western Australia’s unique wildflowers in the surrounding area.

Lynne and I find Port Denison a great place to visit. Its relative closeness to Perth is a distinct advantage and the area has plenty to offer people of all ages.

We will be back.