Why a small-ship Croatian cruise became the highlight of this unforgettable European adventure

Postcards Home with Emily Darlow

Karon and John Dawson have travelled to some of the world’s most remarkable destinations.

The retired high school teachers from Kiama Downs on the New South Wales South Coast have ticked Antarctica, Scandinavia, Iceland, Morocco, Egypt, seven South American countries and countless trips to the United States off their travel list, thanks to family living overseas.

So when they set off earlier this year for five weeks through northern Italy, Slovenia and Croatia, they thought they had a pretty good idea of what to expect.

Instead, one part of the journey completely stole their hearts.

“Our Croatian cruise was definitely the highlight,” Karon said.

“It made me realise exactly why we’d chosen this holiday.”

Their adventure began in Milan before catching the train to the colourful seaside villages of Cinque Terre, where they spent four days exploring the dramatic coastline. From there, they returned to Milan to join a three-and-a-half-week organised tour with 16 fellow Australians, revisiting parts of northern Italy they had first explored two decades earlier.

The itinerary took them through Milan, the Lakes District, Bologna, Modena, Parma and the spectacular Dolomites, including Cortina d’Ampezzo, one of the host locations for the 2026 Winter Olympics. They then crossed into Slovenia to visit the fairytale beauty of Lake Bled and the remarkable underground chambers of Postojna Cave before continuing into Croatia.

After exploring several Croatian towns, cities and the stunning lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park, they boarded the Elixir, a small cruise ship that would become the standout experience of the trip.

Travelling with a small group of fellow Australians and Canadians, along with a young Croatian crew, the atmosphere was unlike any cruise they had experienced before.

“We’ve cruised Antarctica, the Norwegian fjords, Fiji, Alaska, the Caribbean and several other places,” Karon said.

“But what made this cruise a highlight was that there were only a small number of passengers, we could always see the coastline, we could swim off the back of the boat and the scenery was amazing.”

Over the following week, the boat wound its way down Croatia’s spectacular Dalmatian Coast, stopping at picturesque islands and historic harbour towns before arriving in Dubrovnik.

Known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, Dubrovnik’s medieval walls, limestone streets and terracotta rooftops have earned it UNESCO World Heritage status and made it one of Croatia’s most visited destinations.

Rather than rushing through, Karon and John stayed an extra four nights inside the Old Town, giving themselves time to explore at a slower pace.

“Dubrovnik exceeded my expectations,” Karon said.

“It’s somewhere I could happily return.”

One of their favourite experiences was walking the city’s famous walls.

Although the tickets aren’t cheap, Karon believes they’re worth every cent, particularly if you visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler and the crowds begin to thin.

The couple also joined a guided kayaking tour around Dubrovnik, an experience Karon says is achievable for most travellers.

“You don’t need to be fantastically fit, just enthusiastic,” she said.

Food, unsurprisingly, became another highlight of the journey.

Italy delivered everything they had hoped for, from fresh pasta and pizza to focaccia, bruschetta and seafood, while lemon slushies and lemon liqueurs quickly became favourites on warm afternoons.

Croatia offered a memorable farewell at the Captain’s Dinner aboard the Elixir.

“The highlight drink was probably the rakija,” Karon laughed.

“It was the Captain’s home brew. I learnt very quickly not to sip it, just to swig it down.”

Some of Karon’s favourite memories weren’t famous landmarks at all.

She still laughs about arriving in Italy on May 1, when public holiday crowds filled the streets, and spotting dogs of every size travelling on trains and even planes alongside their owners.

Another surprise was just how expensive Europe had become.

“Our expectations were exceeded,” she said.

“But you’ll need plenty of spending money. Supermarkets, eating out and souvenirs certainly weren’t cheap.”

The warmth of the people was another lasting impression.

“Shopkeepers, market stall operators and locals were all friendly and helpful, especially if you tried to speak the local language,” she said.

While many people spoke English, Karon admits she and John always felt slightly embarrassed they only spoke one language fluently.
Not everything went perfectly.

Rain followed them through Venice and Italy’s Lakes District, but thanks to the raincoats and umbrellas they almost left behind, the weather became little more than a minor inconvenience.

The trip also changed one habit Karon brought home with her.

After eating pasta almost daily throughout Italy, she’s now firmly converted to cooking it the traditional way.

“I’ve learnt I’ve been overcooking pasta all these years,” she said.

“I’m now an ‘al dente’ convert.”

When asked about their travel style, Karon is quick to point the finger at her husband.

“John is the organiser,” she said.

“He has the folders, the spreadsheets, does all the research and prints everything.”

The careful planning allows them to enjoy the best of both worlds, combining independent travel before and after organised tours so they can relax once they’re overseas.

For Starts at 60 readers considering a similar holiday, Karon has a few practical tips.

Europe rewards travellers who are reasonably healthy and mobile, she says, with plenty of stairs in many historic towns and cities. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, and packing layers makes it much easier to deal with changing temperatures between the mountains of northern Italy and the warmer Croatian coast.

She also recommends allowing stopovers when flying to Europe.

“It definitely gets harder as you get further past 60,” she said.

If she could relive just one moment tomorrow, the choice would be easy.

“I’d get straight back on the Croatian cruise boat and head to Dubrovnik for a couple of weeks.”

Fortunately for Karon and John, there’s already another adventure on the horizon.

A relaxing week in Samoa awaits later this year, while plans are well underway for next year’s holiday, which will include cruising around Svalbard, attending the opening two Ashes Test matches in England and visiting their daughter, son-in-law and two grandchildren in the Netherlands.

For seasoned travellers who have explored almost every corner of the globe, that’s perhaps the greatest endorsement of all.

Even after decades of unforgettable adventures, a small-ship cruise along Croatia’s spectacular coastline still managed to surprise them.

If you need help planning your next adventure, contact the team at Travel at 60 who can book all your flights, hotels and tours.