‘Our next cultural icon? The National Museum of Australia’

There are buildings in Australia that are inspirational. Obviously, the Sydney Opera House, MONA in Hobart, the post office in Perth, Melbourne’s historic district and a raft of others. But, I would boldly suggest, none of them will retain your interest longer than the adventurous and highly imaginative National Museum of Australia in Canberra. The colloquialism “out there” seems to befit this indescribable structure. Its aim was to be a monument to the centenary of federation and – as such – it was opened in 2001. Almost 20 years on and a revamp and refurbishment later it’s one of the must-sees of Canberra.

Architects Ashton Raggatt McDougall and Robert Peck von Hartel Trethowan created 6,600 square metres of exhibition space on the 11-hectare site. Traditional it is not. Post-modern is about as close as you can get to some sort of artistic label. It’s as different as the architects’ names suggest and they won from 76 entries in a global design competition for the project in 1997. Could it be a coincidence that it was then someone with an easy name – Sue Dove – who was the one who ensured it all went together and reflected the history of Australia?

As you are parking your car, you cannot fail to notice the ‘Uluru Line’: a strange sculpture that emanates from the roof of the main building and rises like a roller-coaster loop over the ‘Garden of Australian Dreams’ and heads towards that huge lump of rock in the middle of Australia some thousands of kilometres away. After the loop it slowly rises until it reaches a concrete sculpture that, to me, resembles a wave. Frankly, I don’t understand the whole thing, but its confrontational power transcends understanding and has you reaching for your camera.

The colours are prolific. The geometric shapes are as varied as they are extreme. It all sits proudly beside Lake Burley Griffin on the Acton Peninsula, where Canberra Hospital once lived. “An organic melee” is one description that has been used. Frankly, I love it, even though I don’t fully ‘get it’. In part, it’s claimed to be a visual pun. However, the joke’s on you. Paul Keating, former Australian prime minister, was not a fan. He called it a “lemon” and said it should have been built on an industrial estate.

As a social history museum, its goal was to reflect the land, nation and people. Its architectural use of metaphor is all encompassing and, might I suggest, the meaning will be beyond comprehension for the majority of folks. Certainly, the huge braille – though visible – will fit that bill. Especially since it’s so high that blind people can’t feel it anyway!

For me, it’s more like the Disneyland of architectural expression. References to Le Corbusier, Jorn Utzon, Libeskind’s Jewish Museum Berlin, Saarinen’s JFK Airport and others leave the casual observer mystified. Its incoherent appearance doesn’t make it any less attractive though, thankfully. That’s why it’s so good! You can’t wander around unaffected. The building itself is as much an experience as the exhibits inside.

Controversy is not something the architects have shied away from. Whether they were on hallucinogenic substances at any time is not recorded. As for the exhibits, it’s a comprehensive range that traverses Aboriginal artefacts to Sunshine Harvesters to a vintage Holden towing a caravan and so much more in between. The building only holds 5 per cent of the collection and it reflects things that are unique to Australia and might interest international visitors as well. An understanding of culture is what it’s trying to achieve.

The Australian Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies, a separate but linked building, has yet another distinct exterior, reflecting the harshness of the land and incorporating some exceptional quality art inside.

When normality returns, the museum can expect upwards of 750,000 visitors each year (the number one attraction – the Australian War Memorial – typically welcomes more than one million a year). I just hope everyone remembers to bring their cameras!