Recently the New South Wales government in Australia, in a media blitz, announced a new walk that would become world famous will be opened in Sydney. I’m sure somewhere in the small type was the fact that this walk had been there almost forever in the form of short walks, though no one had ever bothered to link them before.
Having already done most of the walk, I thought I might share my favourite section, because you can do it in little pieces at your leisure: Taronga Zoo to Balmoral Beach.
It had been an idea for some time. Others we knew had done it. There were no bad reports so, we filled our backpacks with goodies and jumped on a Sydney-bound train. One of the truly great things about being a pensioner in NSW is that you can travel all day on a train, bus or ferry for just $2.50. Most know about it, many use it, but few take advantage to link trips and think outside the norm. This was to be a special day.
Weather-wise it could scarcely have been better; clouds were in absentia as we arrived at Circular Quay for the ferry ride to Taronga. We could think of few things we’d rather be doing than cruising on one of the world’s great harbours before a stroll around its shores.
Alighting at the zoo I was reminded that it was modelled on Hamburg Zoo with the idea of having more open enclosures, its centenary was just a few years ago but, as you turn to see the ferry off, you can’t help but gaze across to that iconic scene of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House nestled beneath the skyscrapers before you leave. It won’t be the last wonderful view on this walk, however.
It starts moving east towards Bradley’s Head, named by Captain John Hunter in 1788 after Lieutenant Bradley of the HMS Sirius, though Aborigines continued to live here until well into the 19th century. Immediately you move into the bush or, at least, are surrounded by trees with occasional glimpses of the harbour. It seems like a world away as you drift past many an eye-catching angophora on your way to the mast of one of the earlier versions of HMAS Sydney (light cruiser); decommissioned in 1928, the mast was erected here in 1934 as a memorial to those lost at sea. Classic panoramas across the harbour can be had here before you turn north towards both Taylors and Chowder Bay.
This part is, for me, probably the best as it curves around to lesser known parts of Sydney Harbour, past expensive homes with manicured gardens and through the best bits of forest. On the trail you’ll probably see an inquisitive water dragon or two and, if you tread softly, you can get quite close. In spring keep your eyes peeled for wildflowers like eggs and bacon, fuchsia heath, grevillea and butterfly bush.
Just past the halfway mark you can tread on the sands of Chowder Bay before possibly taking a break at the outdoor or indoor eateries that precede the historic naval buildings just back from the foreshore, 19 of which are numbered and have their use listed. The whole thing started out in the late-1800s as Submarine Miners Corps base from where they could lay mines in the harbour. Behind you is Clifton Gardens, a favoured picnic spot for those in the know, though parking around here is problematic.
The walk splits up and you have the option to take the slightly longer (by about 200 metres) version and go via Georges Head gunners barracks and defensive fortifications with expansive water views including North and South Head. Don’t go along Chowder Bay Road though, unless you want to prolong your walk even further. It takes you to Obelisk Beach and Middle Head, which you can save for another day.
You need to get to Middle Head Road and be heading east, past the prefabricated wooden framed homes from Sweden that were erected in the 1950s as married quarters. Immediately after that are the steps down to Balmoral and, if you plan to eat at this delightful spot, make sure you’ve got a comfortable amount available on your plastic card because some of the eating establishments here aren’t cheap.
The option I choose after it’s all over is to catch the bus back to Sydney, still on your $2.50 pension rate but, on Sunday, everyone has a flat $2.60 rate anyway. In all, it’s just over 6 kilometres but, because it’s so wonderfully scenic the whole way, you hardly notice the distance.
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