The harsh conditions you’ll find inside the Arctic Circle

Apr 19, 2018

Two years ago my wife, Karen and I took a tour of British Columbia, Canada and then headed north to Alaska, United States. It was springtime in the northern hemisphere and the never-ending days were filled with a creamy light that was just right for photography. We enjoyed every moment of the tour and would do it again in a heartbeat if only there weren’t so many other places on the planet we are yet to visit.

The tour ended in Fairbanks and our final activity before heading home was a flight that took us inside the Arctic Circle. What a unique experience this turned out to be!

We flew north from Fairbanks to a small locality named Coldfoot. The truckstop here features on the television show, Ice Trucker’s Highway, which documents the hazardous journey of these drivers as they carry cargo north in all kinds of weather.

Six of us flew in a twin-engine Piper aircraft that took us low over the snaking Yukon River and parts of the trans-Alaska Pipeline, completed in 1977 to carry oil to Valdez. Below us was a vast expanse of wilderness that would be blanketed in ice and snow during the cold, dark months of the year, but for us we could see the typically stunted trees laid out sparsely below. I thought of the gold diggers who flooded to this area during the days of the gold rush in search of their fortune.

Indeed, the place called Coldfoot, we were told, was named in reference to those gold diggers who camped there on their way back home from the gold fields, defeated by the harsh winter. You got the name ‘Coldfoot’ if you couldn’t hack the wintry conditions and decided to head back home, without the fortune you came for. I’m not sure what you were called if you stayed.

From the airfield at Coldfoot we took a short bus ride to Wiseman, population 12 or so. This location inside the Arctic Circle is for the truly experienced in survival in remote and harsh conditions.

We were fortunate to meet and chat with Jack Reakoff, a local, who gave us a rundown on the history of Wiseman and told us about his lifestyle with his young family in this remote place. How every aspect of their lives, particularly during the winter months, had to be carefully considered and planned to ensure survival. Fuel for generators, food, safety and general well-being. He even gave us a few tips for hunting bears and moose. You can find Jack on Facebook if you want to find out more about Wiseman.

Then we headed back to Fairbanks before the weather closed in. As we landed we got a good view of the airport, which has facilities for float planes as well as conventional aircraft. I was amazed at the number of small aircraft. It seems a pilot’s license is pretty much a requirement for anyone living in this remote part of the world.

This was probably one of the most interesting places I have ever visited. A complete contrast to where I live on the north coast of New South Wales. I now have an addition to my bucket list, to return to Wiseman mid-winter for just a few weeks to see what it’s like and maybe catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Or as those who live inside the Arctic Circle say, The Lights.

Stories that matter
Emails delivered daily
Sign up