A love affair with Porto, Portugal’s other city – Part Two

This blog is the second piece in a two-part series. To read part one, click here. 

Just beyond the pastelaria of choice was another railway station, São Bento, and we strolled in to find a money exchange. Instead we were distracted by a gallery of tiles. There were blue and white tiles that covered every surface, creating narrative murals of great beauty. Finding the bookshop was going to take a while at this rate.

Read more: A love affair with Porto, Portugals other city – Part One

As we saunter along, young people in swirling black capes passed by and we realised that this iwas a university town with traditions. I was caught taking a photo and the smiles let me know that this isn’t the first time these students have been immortalised by a tourist.

There was something going on under the statue in Largo Liberdade. Older, caped students were singing and laughing, while others sat around draped in towels and paper hats. It looked like an orientation into student life, but across the square we saw the golden arches through the trees. So what was José on about?

Art deco Maccas is what, and a fast-food outlet of extreme elegance. Winding staircases, gorgeous mirrors and stained-glass windows. There was minimal commercial intrusion, proof that heritage regulations can work. Far more than a convenience for hungry students and tourists, this was a destination. José was right, there cannot be a more beautiful one anywhere.

But the whole point was the bookshop and we would never get there unless we became more focused. We study the map, get our bearings and are finally standing outside the reason for our detour, Livraria Lello – along with a busload of other tourists. We all shared the experience with good humour and wondered how many books the shop actually sells. But the beauty isn’t hidden, despite the crowd. Stained glass, an elegant central staircase and floor to ceiling stunning bookshelves. It was certainly worth the journey. This town is an art deco and art nouveau treasure trove and we had only just begun. 

Read more:

Rome cracks down on misbehaving tourists

But José mentioned francesinha. Everybody has the best and the most authentic, it seems. We went to a nearby cafe to try our luck with this Porto invention. It’s not found in too many other places, but it’s much loved by locals. Everyone inside is indulging. And all we can say, post-francesinha, is ‘treat with caution’. This curious combination of a fried, cheesy, chickeny sandwich floating in a smoky broth, accompanied by a large plate of chips must be an acquired taste. The secret lies in the broth, José had said. Maybe we had the wrong broth. Even so, adventurous eaters that we are, we won’t bother to try another. Sorry José, this one’s a fail.

With only two days planned, we booked another night. There was too much to see and to do and a desperately needed haircut (the best of my life) was one of them. A river cruise, exploring the Ribiera district, the famous port bodegas on the other river bank, more art nouveau, a metro to the coast, the magnificent churches and the cathedral were all on the list. This has been a detour of delight. We didn’t know it yet, but we would be back in Porto the following year. This time to start at the cathedral and walk to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. But that’s another story.