We’ve recently discovered that owning an old Ford Transit in England puts us into certain categories! When we’re towing our newish caravan we’re likely to be gypsies, or fairground workers. If not, then we are either delivering something, or it’s a getaway car, and we’ve just robbed a bank. This was made clear to us when we were stopped on the road north in Scotland by two very friendly coppers. They checked the van, and said they had to check the ownership and insurance of the caravan, too, as so many are being stolen. They were happy to give us the “all clear”, but not before the jokes had worn thin! It seems that Transits are the ideal getaway car, too, because there are so many of them, plus there’s plenty of room for the “loot”! No wonder we get the odd “odd look” when we park in a sleepy Scottish town!
Back to our travel journal….
We headed north on the M6. Not the most interesting of motorways so we exited before the GPS wanted us to, which meant “he” kept telling us to “make a U turn” for a while, then he eventually gave up on us and recalculated, so that we were travelling through some quiet and delightful countryside until we reached our destination, which was a very small caravan park on Hadrians Wall, just past Carlisle. After our last experience we had phoned ahead and asked for a hardstanding site, or a grass site with a tractor in the morning! The farmer, Andrew, was a delightful host, told us lots about the surrounding area, and we headed off for a walk in his fields on Hadrians Wall. It was covered in grass but there was no doubt it was the Roman Wall.
The following day we took a drive and visited Lanercost Priory, with an 12th century church, still in use, standing right by the ruins. Lanercost Priory was founded in 1169 (or thereabouts) as an Augustinian monastery. Despite being “dissolved” by Henry VIII in 1536 (during the dissolution of the monasteries) parts of the original foundation survive and are still in use.
The sun came out briefly and I then discovered that the battery in my camera was dead, so once again my photos are iPad quality! The church was well worth the visit, a simple gothic design, which attracted me more than some of the fancy churches I’ve seen in Europe. We could see where the cloisters, kitchens, dining room etc., were in the priory, even though it’s a ruin.
Next we visited Birdoswald Fort. This is fifteen miles from Carlisle, and one of sixteen forts along Hadrians Wall. There are tiers of the Roman structure still intact, so worth the walking, and a great view, but what made it even more worthwhile was that there were demonstrations of how the Romans made pottery, and even an original Roman potters wheel, and then we were able to sample some examples of Roman cooking! We particularly liked the cheese and garlic “dip”! They used Parmesan. And the celery purée.
While wandering back to our “car” Greg helped an ancient American woman over the Wall, she seemed quite frail, but then she caught up with her two equally ancient friends. These women were walking the wall! All 87 miles of it. And they were lost. How can you get lost when you are walking along the wall? We pointed them in the right direction and hoped they would make it to their overnight stop, which we found 5 miles down the road. It was already past 6 pm so they must have been on the go, walking sticks aplenty, (not hiking sticks), for at least 8 hours. Brave souls? Or foolhardy? Still, it is daylight for a long time here.
Next day, on the road again to Jedburgh, stopping at Housested Roman Fort on the way, and wow what a walk to the fort! All uphill, but amazing view when we reached the fort, and after all, you wouldn’t have a fort that didn’t have a good view! Had a good chat with a couple who are history teachers, so although we had our guide books we learnt more from them. Greg was particularly interested in the Roman latrines, and one wonders how long the 800 soldiers had to queue to use them but nearby you could see where they sharpened their swords while waiting. These latrines were constant flush, but the exit was down the hill, so the smell would have been putrid. The barracks were clear to see, as was the training and practice ground.
Off to Jedburgh, where we arrived at the caravan park with enough time to see the Jedburgh Castle Jail. This was built in 1820 on the site of the original castle, and we can see how prisoners were treated. Also, what remains of Jedburgh Abbey, built in the 12th century, it has endured 900 years of turbulence. It dominates the skyline as you drive into the town.
Next day… Edinburgh. Watch this space!
What kind of vehicle do you grey nomad in? Are you a car? Caravan? Campervan? Tell us in the comments below…
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