From street food to fine dining, the evolution of Greek-Australian food

When Greek immigrants travelled to Australia in the 1950s, little did they realise how popular their food would become.

Meals such as souvlaki, gyros, loukoumades, moussaka, spanakopita and more, are now pretty common — but the popularity of Greek food is a relatively recent trend.

In fact, very few traditional Greek restaurants operated prior to the ’70s. Before then, Greek migrants opened milk bars and cafes, but it wasn’t food from their home country that was on the menu — it was burgers, milkshakes and ice-cream.

But after World War II, it was only a matter of time before traditional Greek cuisine made its mark in Australia.

Now, speaking with Starts at 60, Sydney-based Australian-Greek chef David Tsirekas, whose family emigrated from Greece to Australia in 1956, explains why authentic Greek cuisine has been embraced in Australia.

“There’s a similarity with the Mediterranean lifestyle,” he says. “I think because [the] Australian culture is to be out in sun, by the sea … we have similar values. So I think that’s why [Greek food] is very popular.”

The chef and former restaurant owner is on a mission to transform diners’ perceptions of Greek food, and prove that it’s more than just a midnight gyros craving.

With more than 20 years’ experience in the industry, Tsirekas retains an executive chef position while still dabbling in consultancy projects. He recently oversaw the launch of Brisbane restaurant Nostimo, and two other Greek eateries in Chicago, US.

While Tsirekas feels Greek cuisine needs to continue evolving, at the same time he believes it’s just as important to keep referring to Greece for inspiration.

“My mum and dad were very passionate about cooking in the kitchen and I guess it rubbed off on me,” he says. 

“I try to go back every year. Greece is developing a lot quicker than over here because we’re so far away.”

He reckons most Australian-Greeks are stuck to the traditions brought over by their parents and grandparents, adding: “And in a way they kind of got stuck in a bubble.

“When I went to Chicago, I was shocked to see they were still selling food from the ’80s,” he says.

As for Australian cuisine, he says compared to the US the Aussies are more advanced in producing quality as “we’ve absorbed other culture and their foods”.

“[With] the constant stream of immigrants coming through [Australia], teaching us new techniques and flavours … we’re absorbing it all to make one sort of infused kitchen,” he explains. “As opposed to other parts of the world, we’re more open to new ideas.

“And it shows in our food too … you can walk down the street of any suburb and you’ll have plenty of choice.”

What do you think? Do you enjoy eating Greek food? Do you remember dining at milk bars in the ’50s?