For Sharon Williams OAM, a 12-day expedition cruise through one of the world’s most biodiverse marine regions delivered more bucket-list moments than she could count.
The founder and CEO of Taurus Marketing had long dreamed of experiencing a small luxury expedition cruise. As a keen swimmer with a love of boats, a voyage through Raja Ampat aboard the Paspaley Pearl was an opportunity she could not resist.
“I am English, so I am still in awe of all things Down Under,” Sharon said.
Several years earlier, she had enjoyed a four-night cruise from Sydney Harbour to Palm Beach, Pittwater and the Hawkesbury over New Year, which gave her a taste of small-ship cruising. When her friend Nicci Foulsham recommended the Raja Ampat voyage, Sharon jumped at the chance to experience a longer expedition.
Raja Ampat lies at the heart of the Coral Triangle and is often described as the “Amazon of the Ocean” because of its extraordinary marine biodiversity. Its waters are home to more than 550 species of coral and at least 1,300 species of reef fish, making it one of the richest marine environments on the planet.
For Sharon, the chance to spend 12 days swimming in places few travellers ever reach was a dream come true.
After flying from Sydney to Darwin, she boarded the Paspaley Pearl and travelled north through the Banda Islands towards Raja Ampat, following the ancient spice routes of eastern Indonesia and visiting remote and historic places along the way. The voyage ended in Dili, Timor-Leste, adding another destination to the adventure.
Sharon’s first impression was not of the landscape, but of the ship that would become home for the next 12 days.
“I am a boatie with a big love of ships, and it was breathtakingly beautiful,” she said.
“The lines, the colour, the elegance and warmth, the striped cushions, outdoor spaces, spa and champagne on arrival – it was immaculate, like something that existed in dreams.”
The boutique expedition vessel was also small enough to reach places inaccessible to larger ships, making the experience feel even more special. Sharon’s regular update to her family became the hashtag “living like Victoria Beckham”.
Her glamorous arrival did not go entirely according to plan, however. Dressed in a carefully chosen outfit and hat, Sharon tripped while walking up the gangplank to meet the captain and crew.
“I had to recompose myself,” she said. “There was no alcohol involved. That was before any welcome drink. They must have wondered who they were getting.”
Once safely aboard, Sharon settled into a daily routine that revolved around the sea. She rose early to watch the sunrise, look for flying fish and enjoy the peace of the morning before breakfast. The day’s activities usually included two opportunities to swim or snorkel from the Zodiacs.
Guests could choose to enter the water or remain aboard and rest, but Sharon chose to make the most of every chance to swim.
“I chose to swim and work off all that food,” she said.
The days ended with a shower, evening drinks and a debrief about what the guests had seen and experienced. There were also lectures before dinner, giving those aboard an opportunity to learn more about the places through which they were travelling.
Despite the elegant surroundings, there were few late nights. With days filled with swimming, excursions and exploration, most guests were ready for an early night before beginning again the following morning.
The food was another memorable part of the voyage, with chef Alex and two other chefs preparing meals for the small group across the ship’s two restaurants.
Breakfast became a favourite, although after enjoying breakfast and lunch, Sharon sometimes found dinner was almost more than she could manage. Almost.
An Easter lunch featuring a leg of lamb and a special dessert was the culinary highlight, while freshly caught fish cooked on the barbecue was another standout.
Yet it was the scenery and marine life that made the deepest impression. Sharon had deliberately set off without firm expectations, but found the deep ocean, spectacular landscapes and remoteness every bit as beautiful as she had hoped.
“It quite frankly doesn’t look real until you are there,” she said.
She swam and snorkelled above colourful reefs, visited deserted beaches and saw the heart-shaped lagoon for which the region is known. The remoteness of the islands made them feel worlds away from her everyday life in Sydney.
“I lost count of the number of times I said, ‘This is a dream come true,’” she said. “There were so many bucket-list ticks.”
The pristine surroundings also prompted her to reflect on pollution elsewhere and the importance of protecting the planet’s remaining natural environments.
“It showed me how amazingly beautiful our planet is,” she said.
Although the Paspaley Pearl can accommodate up to 30 guests, only 18 were aboard for Sharon’s voyage. The small group meant the experience felt personal and unhurried, with the crew quickly getting to know the guests and fellow travellers becoming friends.
“The camaraderie between the guests was wonderful,” she said. “We all got on so well and have stayed in touch through a WhatsApp chat.
“Before long, the crew knew us, fellow guests became familiar faces and, after each remarkable day of exploration, it genuinely felt like coming home.”
Sharon discovered there was little need for shoes aboard the ship and several of the bikinis and swimming costumes she packed went unworn because her favourite dried quickly enough to wear again.
Her usual travel style depends on the destination. When travelling through Europe, Sharon prefers to have a plan and itinerary, but this was a holiday where she was happy to hand over responsibility and allow the crew to take care of the details.
“For this trip, I was eager and interested, but a relaxed wanderer,” she said.
For travellers considering a similar journey, Sharon recommends having a love of, or at least a strong interest in, the water, ocean life and boats, as so much of the experience centres on the sea.
If she could return to one moment, it would be the time spent on a private island, where seats, drinks and nibbles had been arranged for the guests.
“Dipping into the ocean with a glass in hand – that is the moment I would relive,” she said.
With Raja Ampat now added to her collection of treasured travel memories, Sharon is already looking towards her next adventure: Antarctica.
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