A tropical paradise that serves up a little patch of France, just a few hours’ flight from Australia? It may sound like a mythical melange, but this to-die-for holiday combination is very much a reality in New Caledonia.
This overseas territory of France in the southwestern Pacific Ocean has a culture that’s a fascinating blend of influences, including Melanesian, French, Vietnamese and North African. And it’s not just the cultural influences that are diverse. As beautiful and unmissable as they are, there’s so much more to New Caledonia than its famous UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon, reef and beaches. It’s a tropical playground that will surprise you as it delights, with experiences and untouched locations beckoning adventure- and luxury-lovers alike.
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Australia has the largest reef in the world, but the second-largest can be found just a few hours away (less than three hours from Sydney), in stunning New Caledonia. This little patch of France in the southwestern Pacific Ocean is also home to the world’s largest lagoon – 2018 marks the 10th anniversary of its listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As well as a photo of the reef, you also need to return home with a cracker of a shot of the lagoon – it’s the world’s largest, after all! Whether you take a shot from above the crystal-clear waters or capture the coral and teeming, colourful marine life below, all depends on whether or not you plan to get wet (and what sort of camera you have). Snorkelling is first-rate all over the archipelago, so even beginners will be spoilt for choice.
The unofficial symbol of New Caledonia has to be this natural, perfect heart which has grown in the heart of a mangrove swamp. The Coeur de Voh (Heart of Voh) is located near the township of Voh,
at the northwestern end of Grand Terre, the main island of New Caledonia. It first came to the world’s attention when renowned photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand put it on the cover of a book of aerial photography, Earth from Above. You can view it from an altitude of 400 metres (via a two-hour return trip up Mt Kathépaïk), but as Arthus-Bertrand’s book attests, it’s best seen from the air.
Whether you like chilling out on a white sandy beach, or you’re the active type and plan to have holiday adventures all over the islands of New Caledonia, it’s always nice to return to stylish digs at the end of a long and lovely day, whether it’s a super-glam overwater bungalow or cheap-and-cheerful beachside retreat.
A New Caledonia photo album is not complete without a shot taken on the spectacular Isle of Pines (Ile des Pins), a.k.a ‘the Jewel of the Pacific’. Think turquoise lagoons fringed with white sands or cruising on the exquisite Upi Bay on a pirogue (traditional outrigger sailing boat), but the money shot here has to be a photo of the Araucaria pine trees after which the island is named.
The indigenous Melanesian tribes of New Caledonia are known as Kanaks, and on the Isle of Pines you’ll find incredible traditional Kanak art in the form of carved wood totems. At the southern end of the island, a sculpture of Saint Maurice stands in front of, appropriately, St. Maurice Bay. The monument commemorates the first Catholic service given here, in August 1848, and is surrounded by a ‘fence’ of wooden totems carved by the different tribes of the island – more totems line the white beach beyond. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new(er) cultures, and makes for an intriguing, attractive pic that’s unique to New Caledonia.
Lifou is the largest and most populous of the Loyalty Islands – the coral atolls which lie to the east of Grand Terre. It’s home to some of the most dramatic landscapes in the Pacific – including the Cliffs of Jokin. Located at the northern tip of the island, the 40-metre-tall cliffs rise above the clear waters of a stunning cove and look out to a vast bay beyond. It’s a top spot for brilliant sunset views (not to mention photos), but if you fancy a walk down to the cove at the base of the cliffs, be warned that you’ll need to walk down – and then up again – around 200 steps. We’re not jokin’.
You’ll find Madeleine Falls (a.k.a Les Chutes de la Madeleine) in the heart of the Grand Sud – the Far South region of the main island of Grand Terre. Located in the Plain of Lakes (Plaine des Lacs), you can reach the falls in only 75 minutes or so by car from New Caledonia’s capital, Noumea. The block-type falls are only around five metres tall, but feature a wide apron of water and beautiful setting that make them great for viewing… and for photographing. Once you’ve nailed the perfect shot, there are great trails for hikers in the Plain of Lakes as well. The distinctive red earth here is yet another example of New Caledonia’s extraordinary diversity.
French is the official language of New Caledonia, but many other local Kanak languages are also spoken here. In the Fwâj language, Hienghène means “crying while walking” – and the scenery in this part of the archipelago could definitely reduce you to tears (of joy and wonder). Known as ‘the cradle of the Kanak soul,’ Hienghène – also located on Grand Terre – is a region of spectacular natural beauty. It’s home to the black-rock cliffs of Lindéralique, the highest point on New Caledonia, Mont Panié mountain (1,628m) the waterfall of Tao, eye-catching limestone islets and amazing coral forests and diving spots.
Adventure- and nature-lovers will want to get a photo of the Dumbéa River on Grand Terre. Anyone who thinks New Caledonia is all about white sand and blue sea will be astounded to visit this magnificent region, characterised by eucalyptus forests, red earth, mineral-rich hills and the deep green hues of the river. It’s a top spot for swimming, camping, hiking and kayaking down the tranquil waters of the Dumbéa.
There’s a whole bunch of things to see and do in New Caledonia’s casual and cosmopolitan capital, Nouméa. One of the highlights is the extraordinary Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, which showcases Kanak heritage in a stunning museum designed by Renzo Piano (the same guy who designed The Shard in London and the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris). At every turn in Nouméa you’ll also be reminded that, even though you’re in the South Pacific, you’re in French territory here. This is a place where you can enjoy an espresso and a flaky delicacy from a proper French patisserie, a soupçon of shopping and some Gallic rolling of the ‘r’s in the morning, before snorkelling in the Coral Sea in the afternoon.
Go ahead, take the shot, but remember that even the most highly skilled snapper will struggle to truly capture the beauty of a sunset. But it really doesn’t matter, as long as you’re there, experiencing the magic in real life.
Try your luck to become an official Australian ambassador and win a seat on an amazing road trip around New Caledonia. Click here to enter.