“……..there’s always something special.”
Goodbye to Sydney town; big and beautiful as it is. There’s so much to see and do in this city and our time there was never going to be enough. But with the road calling we headed north to Foster – Tuncurry and The Great Lakes Region.
On Saturday May 12th 1770 Captain James Cook named Cape Hawke after Admiral Sir Edward Hawke. The lookout bearing this name is south of Foster-Tuncurry and a climb up the Bicentennial Walking Track is rewarded with spectacular views of the twin towns, Wallamba River and the beautiful Wallis and Myall lakes. To the south lies Booti-Booti National Park.
In Pacific Palms a Sunday market was attracting locals and tourists to the many stalls selling goods from handcrafts to tasty food and drinks. Despite the threat of rain the market was abuzz with people enjoying the atmosphere that makes Sunday markets so popular.
Numerous rocky coves and sandy beaches are a feature of the coastline and boardwalks through semi rain forest reveal hidden natural treasures. Under grey skies we continued south along the coast to Bungwahl, Seal Rocks and Sugar Loaf Point Lighthouse. Perched high on a wind-swept knoll the light guards a treacherous outcrop of rocks that extend three kilometres to sea. A plaque informed us that many ships had fallen victim to the partly submerged dangers. We gazed out to sea and imagined the horror that those unfortunate sailors must have experienced before the rocks and raging waters claimed their vessels.
With four wheel drive engaged we left the road and followed a rough track through the scrub and emerged at an old cemetery. The surrounding area gave indication that houses once stood here. Old fruit trees, rotted fence posts and building foundations now all but hidden by the undergrowth. As we wandered around the headstones we wondered what stories lay buried here. Who were these people; children and adults alike and what had their lives been?
The track we were on took us to Hearts Point on the shores of Myall Lake. This is a secluded and peaceful spot where fishermen launch boats to fish the many coves and inlets that run along the shoreline. Ghostly paperbark trees stand amongst the reeds and water grass to create an eerie forest. Pelicans and swans drift on glass-like water and kookaburras watch from high. We were alone in this wonderland.
Between Bungwahl and Bulahdelah a gravel road climbs through semi rain forest then higher onto the range where flood gums reach towards the sky. Here, the giant that is the tallest known tree in NSW stands. Seventy six metres tall and four hundred years old, this tree is called the ‘Grandis’ and it dominates the surrounding forest.
The Plough Hotel in Bulahdelah was looking good and as the day drew to an end we sat in the beer garden and enjoyed a couple of bevies before returning to camp.
Over the next few days we continued our exploration of the NSW coast and hinterland as we made our way north. Each day was filled with a sense of freedom and anticipation of what lay ahead. Wherever we go there is always something special. If you take your time to stop and have a look around the seemingly ordinary things and places often reveal a secret. It may be found in a craft shop or an old pub in a small village. It may be a café with great coffee or a local museum that houses a wealth of history. It may simply be the words on a historic marker or a lonely tombstone.
Port Macquarie became our base for a while and from there we explored much of the area. The Comboyne Plateau to the west was one of the most impressive trips we did. This is dairy farming country where rolling hills meet steep mountains covered in dense semi rain forest. At the town of Comboyne we stopped for coffee at the Udder Cow Café and from our table we admired the huge mural on the wall of the local store. The artist has created a vast rural scene capturing images of agricultural pursuits as well as the beauty of the area. From Comboyne a gravel road climbs higher into the ranges and follows the rim of a steep gorge where rain forest covers the slopes and hides the gullies in thick vegetation. Ellenborough Falls are a feature and the grandest of many waterfalls that attract visitors. From atop the falls a timber stairway descends to the base of the falls. Down a 160 degree incline through magical rainforest; this trail is an adventure of its own. At the bottom water thunders onto ragged rocks creating clouds of vapour and water droplets that catch the sunlight in a myriad of rainbow colours.
On another day we visited Timbertown at Wauchope. This is a pioneer village that has recreated life in a timber town in the early days of the local timber industry. A wonderful link to history and a chance to reconnect with Australia’s colourful past.
At Coffs Harbour we experienced one of those things that takes the shine off.
The caravan park we chose was just north of town and our site on the southern edge adjoined an unfenced public reserve that gave access to the beach. Nice and easy to go for a walk. However easy access out also easy access in.
Next morning my bike was gone from within the annexe. We could not believe it. But we were not the only ones to get gear stolen that night. Several others had suffered the same. Things ranging from torches to portable barbeques were removed from camp sites and no one in the park heard or saw a thing. Now the really odd thing about this is the fact that the park was pet friendly. Dogs of all shapes and sizes. I would have thought that out of all those canines there was one that could have done its duty as a guard dog when the need arose.
Whilst on the subject of dogs; I have a request to those dog owners who fail to educate their animals.
Do not get me wrong, I like dogs but please people do not let your little friend crap on my van site and when you take the little darling for walkies don’t stand patiently whilst he relieves himself on a post or other public property. Give his collar a sharp tug and teach the little bugga some manners.
Despite the loss of my beloved treddly our stay in Coffs Harbour was highlighted by a day trip into the Dorrigo National Park. Within the park the variation in vegetation and landforms cannot go unnoticed. Nor can the many villages, local arts and crafts, coffee shops, pubs and historic buildings. The park has world heritage listing and protects a vast area of warm temperate rain forest where Sassafras, Coachwood and Lilly Pilly tower over an understory of thick forest floor vegetation. Up on the higher ridges and along the escarpments and slopes the land is forested by Eucalypts and Shining Gums. On the highest elevations stands an ancient forest of Antarctic Beech.
Coffs Harbour view south from Mutton Bird Island.
