Inspired by Jamie Oliver’s classic, perfected by a neighbour who clearly knows what she’s doing
There are some meals you eat at a friend’s house that stay with you for weeks. You find yourself thinking about them on a Tuesday night when you’re staring into the fridge wondering what to make. You text to ask for the recipe. You make it, and it’s almost as good – but not quite, because nothing ever tastes quite the same as food made by someone else in their own kitchen.
That’s what happened last Saturday night at Sandy’s place. The meatloaf came out of the oven golden and fragrant, wrapped in crispy bacon, sitting in a bubbling tomato sauce. The garlic mash was piled high, impossibly creamy, with enough butter in it to make a French chef nod with approval.
Sandy’s recipe is based on Jamie Oliver’s classic beef meatloaf from his Ministry of Food cookbook – the one he described as “great comfort food, made along similar lines to meatballs and burgers.” Jamie uses cream crackers as the binder, which gives the meatloaf a lighter texture than breadcrumbs, and seasons the beef with cumin and coriander – two spices that sound unusual in a meatloaf until you taste them, and then you can’t imagine it any other way.
The garlic mash is Sandy’s own addition, and it is the perfect partner. Rich, silky, deeply savoury and generously buttered – the kind of mash that reminds you why this is one of the great comfort foods of all time.
Here’s how to make both.
Beef mince seasoned with cumin and coriander, bound with crushed cream crackers, wrapped in smoky bacon and baked in a rich spicy tomato sauce. Comfort food at its absolute best.
Servings 6
Ingredients
1 brown onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoons ground coriander
12 cream crackers (e.g. Arnott’s Cream Crackers)
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
500 grams beef mince (500g — use regular, not extra lean)
1 large free-range egg
1 pinch salt and black pepper
2 fresh rosemary sprigs
12 bacon rashers or pancetta slices
1 brown onion, peeled and diced into 1cm pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
1 half a long red chilli, deseeded and sliced (optional)
1 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
400 grams tinned chickpeas, drained
400 grams tinned crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil for sauce
Method
1 Preheat and prep: Preheat your oven to its highest temperature – around 240°C (220°C fan). Place 1 brown onion, peeled and finely chopped in a large frying pan over medium-high heat with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add 1 teaspoons ground cumin and 1 teaspoons ground coriander, season well with 1 pinch salt and black pepper, and fry for about 7 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and lightly golden. Tip into a large bowl and leave to cool for 10 minutes.
2 Make the meatloaf mixture: While the onion cools, wrap 12 cream crackers (e.g. Arnott’s Cream Crackers or Jazz if you can’t find cream crackers) in a clean tea towel and bash with a rolling pin until you have fine crumbs. Add to the bowl with the cooled onion, along with 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 500 grams beef mince (500g — use regular, not extra lean) and 1 large free-range egg. Season generously with 1 pinch salt and black pepper. With clean hands, scrunch and mix everything together well until thoroughly combined. Don’t be shy – get in there.
3 Shape the meatloaf: Tip the meat mixture onto a clean board and pat and shape it into a large oval log – think rugby ball shape, about 20cm long. Rub lightly with a little olive oil. Pick the leaves from 2 fresh rosemary sprigs and set aside. Lay the 12 bacon rashers or pancetta slices rashers overlapping on your board and place the meatloaf at one end. Roll the meatloaf up tightly in the bacon so it’s fully wrapped. Transfer to a roasting dish or casserole pan.
4 First bake: Place the meatloaf in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 200°C (180°C fan). Bake for 30 minutes.
5 Make the sauce: While the meatloaf bakes, make the sauce. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil for sauce in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 brown onion, peeled and diced into 1cm pieces, 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced, 1 half a long red chilli, deseeded and sliced (optional) if using, and 1 teaspoons smoked paprika with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Add 400 grams tinned chickpeas, drained, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, 400 grams tinned crushed tomatoes and 1 tablespoons balsamic vinegar. Bring to the boil, breaking up the tomatoes, then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes until slightly thickened.
6 Finish in the oven: Remove the meatloaf from the oven. Pour the bacon fat from the pan over the reserved rosemary leaves and toss to coat. Spoon the tomato sauce around the meatloaf in the roasting dish, scatter over the rosemary, then return to the oven for a final 10 to 15 minutes 15:00 until the bacon is crispy and golden and the sauce is bubbling.
7 Rest and serve: Remove from the oven and rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve thick slices over buttery garlic mash with plenty of sauce spooned over the top.
Sandy’s tips:
Don’t skip the resting time – it makes the meatloaf much easier to slice cleanly.
Leftover meatloaf is sensational cold the next day in a sandwich with a little Dijon mustard.
If you prefer, leave out the chilli entirely – the sauce is still rich and flavourful without it.
The chickpeas in the sauce are a Jamie Oliver touch that sounds unusual but adds wonderful body and texture. Don’t leave them out.
Make ahead: the meatloaf can be shaped and refrigerated (uncooked) for up to 24 hours before baking.
Rich, silky and deeply buttery – this is the mash that dreams are made of. The roasted garlic gives it a sweet, mellow depth that raw garlic never could. Make it once and you’ll never go back to plain mash again.
100 grams unsalted butter, cut into cubes (cold)
120 milliliters full-cream milk or pouring cream, warmed
1 teaspoons salt
1 pinch white pepper
Method
The secrets to mash like Sandy’s:
Choose the right potato. Floury varieties like Sebago (the all-purpose brushed potato), Desiree (red skin) or Dutch Cream are essential. Waxy potatoes like Nicola make gluey mash.
Dry your potatoes. After draining, return them to the hot pan and let them steam dry for 2 minutes before mashing. Removing extra moisture means the butter and cream go further.
Warm your milk or cream. Adding cold liquid to hot potatoes drops the temperature and makes the mash gluey.
Don’t use a food processor or stick blender. Over-processing potatoes breaks down the starch and makes them gummy. A potato ricer gives the smoothest result; a hand masher works well too.
Roast the garlic ahead of time. The garlic can be roasted earlier in the day and squeezed out when you’re ready to cook.
Be generous with the butter. Sandy was. You should be too.
There you have it – the full dinner.