Few desserts inspire as much passionate debate as tiramisu. Ask ten Italian nonnas how to make it properly and you’ll likely get ten slightly different answers, but there are a few things purists agree on: real mascarpone, properly made zabaglione, and a generous dusting of cocoa, not chocolate shavings, on top.

We’re giving you both versions here. The simple approach below makes do with ingredients that are easy to find and skips a few fiddly steps, without sacrificing flavour. The traditional method that follows takes a little more care, using the classic Italian technique, for anyone wanting to make the real deal.

A note on raw egg: both versions below use raw or lightly cooked egg, which carries a small risk of salmonella. If you’re serving anyone elderly, pregnant, or with a compromised immune system, consider using pasteurised eggs, widely available at supermarkets, as a safer substitute.

Simple Tiramisu

This version makes do with ingredients that are easily and readily available to us, which means it crosses a few lines when it comes to hallowed Italian tradition. Still, it’s every bit as delicious and flavourful, and it comes together with a little less fuss.

Serves 12 | Prep: 30 minutes | Chill: Overnight

Ingredients

2-3 cups strong black coffee (somewhere between a long black and an espresso)
Sugar (1½ teaspoons for each cup of coffee)
Dark rum (2 teaspoons for each cup of coffee)
2 egg yolks
4 drops pure vanilla essence
250g mascarpone, at room temperature
600ml thick cream, whipped until firm peaks
1 cup ground almonds
2 packets sponge finger biscuits (savoiardi)
Shaved dark chocolate, to serve

Method

Pour the warm coffee into a bowl, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Add the rum and refrigerate until cold.
Whisk the egg yolks until light and creamy, add the vanilla, then gradually add the mascarpone until well combined. Fold in the whipped cream and ground almonds.
Spread a rectangle of the cream mixture on a serving plate.
Pass the sponge fingers through the coffee until soaked but not soggy, and place flat, one by one, on top of the cream, until the dessert is about the right length (roughly 8 sponge fingers).
Spread another thick layer of the cream mixture over the sponge fingers, then begin a second layer of fingers. Spread a third layer of cream mixture, then fingers, then top with a final layer of cream.
Cover the sides with the remaining cream to make a rectangular log. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Sprinkle with shaved chocolate to serve.

Traditional Italian Tiramisu

This is the classic method, using a proper zabaglione base and layered in a dish the traditional way, finished with cocoa rather than chocolate. It takes a little longer, but the result is noticeably lighter and silkier than the simple version.

Serves 10-12 | Prep: 40 minutes | Chill: Overnight

Ingredients

500g mascarpone, at room temperature
5 eggs, separated
100g caster sugar
2 cups strong espresso coffee, cooled
3 tablespoons Marsala wine (or dark rum, if unavailable)
2 packets sponge finger biscuits (savoiardi)
Unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting

Method

Combine the coffee and Marsala in a shallow dish and set aside to cool completely.

Place the egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water (make sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water). Whisk continuously for 8-10 minutes, until the mixture is pale, thick and has roughly doubled in volume. This is your zabaglione. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Once cooled, fold the mascarpone into the zabaglione a third at a time, until smooth and well combined.

In a separate, clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture in two batches, being careful not to knock out the air.

Working quickly, dip each sponge finger briefly into the cooled coffee and Marsala mixture, just a second or two per side, and arrange in a single layer in the base of a 20 x 30cm dish.

Spread half the mascarpone mixture evenly over the sponge fingers. Repeat with a second layer of soaked sponge fingers, then top with the remaining mascarpone mixture, smoothing the surface.

Cover and refrigerate overnight, or for at least 6 hours, to allow the flavours to develop and the dessert to set properly.

Just before serving, dust generously with cocoa powder through a fine sieve.

Tips

Don’t oversoak the sponge fingers in either version — a quick dip is all they need, as they’ll continue absorbing moisture as the dessert sets in the fridge.

Tiramisu genuinely improves with a night in the fridge, so resist the temptation to serve it early if you can.

Both versions keep well in the fridge for up to 3 days, making this an excellent make-ahead dessert for guests.

If using pasteurised eggs for food safety reasons, the zabaglione method in the traditional version may take slightly longer to thicken, so be patient and keep whisking.