In Travel Bloggers on Thursday 11th Oct, 2018

Stonehenge: This place rocks

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It can no longer be done, I’m afraid, but when I was a youngster, everyone could actually walk among the sarsens (sandstone blocks) of Stonehenge, the prehistoric monument and stone circle, that’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Even as late as 1967 visitors could get amongst them – to touch them and appreciate their immense size and weight. I have a photograph of our youngest son, Ross “holding up” two of the mighty stones.

Source: Brian Lee
Brian’s son Ross, at Stonehenge in the late 1960s. Source: Brian Lee

Sadly, it is no longer possible to do this because the ground around the stones was literally being worn away by the many millions of feet that stepped, stomped and slid there over the years. Eventually, the authorities began to worry that the stones might at the very least become loose, or at worst fall over – they were starting to act like teeth in diseased gums, ready to fall out if handled too heavily.

Stonehenge is one of the great monuments of the ancient world, older than the pyramids, but presenting quite similar problems to the builders of both. No one really knows how they did it, but some of the stones, all of them weighing many tons, were brought from as far away as Wales, more than 320km from their final resting place in what we now call Wiltshire.

Various suggestions have been put forward over the years and the most highly thought of is that they were somehow cut roughly to size in Wales, then manoeuvred, (with difficulty!), down to the sea, perhaps near where Cardiff now stands. They were then loaded onto what can only be described as ‘barges’ – enormous wooden platforms, one for each stone – and ferried all the way around the coast of Devon and Cornwall, and along to the area of what is now Christchurch, where the River Avon enters the sea. The Avon flows in its course, to within a couple of miles of the Stonehenge site, and I imagine the task of dragging them that short distance, after the epic voyage from Wales and up the river, presented a few extra problems to the people accomplishing it! Of course, once at the site, the stones had to have their final carving and they then had to be stood upright, with other, slightly smaller, stones placed on top of them. A truly epic task, and one which it is believed, must have taken many generations of builders, several hundred years to complete. Definitely not a weekend job for the handyman!

Source: Getty
Stonehenge from the air. Source: Getty

The whole area for many miles around Stonehenge must have had great religious significance to the people who were living and working there at the time. That part of England is richly dotted with burial mounds, ancient roadways, marker stones and, of course, stone circles, the largest of which is Avebury (which even has a fair-sized village in the centre of it, inhabited to this day). Plus there’s the mysterious Silbury Hill, not too far from Stonehenge. It’s the largest man-made hill in Europe, and no one has been able to discover why it was built there in the first place – just another of those mammoth tasks ancient civilisations seemed to relish!

Still in the same area of countryside, but modern by the standards of Stonehenge, is Old Sarum. This is the original ancient site of the city we now know as Salisbury (where people get poisoned by Russians nowadays!), though the modern city is now several kilometres to the south. Old Sarum was originally an Iron-Age hill fort, later occupied by the Romans and then the Normans, who built a motte-and-bailey castle there. It was one of the biggest settlements in medieval England, and a magnificent cathedral was built there, sadly now ruined. Even today though, the place is well worth a visit, with many interesting points to admire.

Source: Brian Lee
Old Sarum. Source: Brian Lee

The Wiltshire Downs still play an important, if more secret, part in the life of England. Not for ancient religious or commercial reasons, but because the military has taken over a very large part of the county as a training ground for tanks, guns and other reasons – some of them very secret, I am sure.

There are even villages on the Salisbury Plain that were taken over during World War II and are still used now for all types of training. The original owners of the properties have never been allowed to return, except for occasional nostalgic visits – and even these are now waning as the original owners die off and the younger generations have no connections with the place.

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