Ellis Beach – north Queensland’s best kept secret

Ellis Beach is considered the best beach in the Cairns area — a warm, tropical, never-ending coral sea beach edged with fine golden sand and palm trees. Usually there are only a handful of people around — the area is totally crowd free.

This secret location is situated 30 minutes drive north of Cairns and 30 minutes drive south of Port Douglas, on the Captain Cook Highway — one of the most spectacular scenic roads in Australia. The only commercial enterprise nearby is The Ellis Beach Bar and Grill opposite the beach. The Surf Lifesaving Club has club rooms next to the Bar and Grill and the Cairns Yacht Club is hidden in trees behind the beach.

The entrance to the Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalows, where we stay is wedged between tropical foliage and is hard to see.

For 15 years my husband Allan and I have escaped the southern winter and spent part of July and August at Ellis Beach. It all began when we were busy working hard in our antique shop down here in Tassie. Our customers were, almost without exception, visitors to Tasmania and our antique shop has always closed in July and August during the very depths of winter. Visitors to Tassie are few and far between in winter. They have all gone north to warmer climates and so did we!

Our first holiday to this beautiful beach brought us under it’s spell and we are there every winter now.

I would describe The Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalows’ accommodation as unpretentious. No glitz, no glamour, nothing fake; its style is naturally honest and down-to-earth simple. We take a small bungalow; beautifully screened by palms and quite private. It is situated about four paces from the sand and at high tide the waves sometimes nearly reach our deck. You will understand that the key descriptive words here are:

1. Location
2. Location
3. Location

Our small bungalow has one bedroom, a bathroom, small kitchen, dining and living space. Most time is spent on the spacious deck enjoying glorious Coral Sea views — excellent at night when the moon rises.

The complex includes some camp and caravan sites; some are virtually on the sand and very sought after. The pool area is delightful and reception offers basic supplies plus the daily paper. Tours and attractions can be booked at reception.

The tourism industry in North Queensland is seasonal — the holiday season runs from about June to November when the weather is at its best, warm and balmy. This suits those of us who are shivering down in the southern states during June, July and August and many of us make the journey north to enjoy an interlude in the sun.

We take an early flight from Tassie and arrive in Cairns about midday, pick up the supermarket supplies, unpack, take a first swim then enjoy a candlelight dinner for two on the deck. Dinner centres around our favourite black tiger prawns plus tropical fruits — Allan and I have landed in paradise.

I always start my Ellis Beach day with a beach jog and swim at sunrise — Allan takes a long swim, I wear a swimsuit all day with or without a cover-up. The beach is best in the morning before the sea breeze comes up, then the pool area is ideal in the afternoon because it is very sheltered. Meals are simple to suit the minimalist kitchen.

Early during our stay, we like to take a trip to Tolga on the Atherton Tableland. On the way we call at Jaques Coffee Plantation for coffee and maybe a spin in an ultralight plane or a gyrocopter. Lunch is at the Tolga Woodcraft Gallery (I recommend the pear and ginger cake). A few purchases, then to the Tolga Bakery, known for “the best pies in Australia”, to stock up. On the way home we call at the Peanut Place (a roadside stall) for peanut ice-cream and peanut butter; a bag of peanuts in the shell is a must. It is not mango season at this time of the year, so we buy a few bags of frozen mango cheeks; they taste superb and are convenient to store and serve.

Suggested excursions

However, my absolute favourite is butterfly and bird-watching from the deck of our bungalow. It’s not uncommon to spy a Ulysses butterfly and every year I adore observing the baby Bush Curlews hatch in a nearby nest.

A variety of accommodation styles is available from deluxe studios down to budget cabins. We take a mid-range oceanfront, small bungalow and pay $1,190 per week — includes weekly servicing.

Now I must confess, that word among the regulars at Ellis Beach is, “never tell anyone down south about this place or they’ll all be up here”. Well, I’ve spilled the beans so you can put Ellis Beach on the holiday list for next year… Just don’t say that Margaret Woodberry told you.

Have you got a ‘secret’ holiday spot you’d like to share? Does a trip to Ellis Beach and far north Queensland appeal to you?